Hello!
I'm Christine Hartland, the Taxidermy Artist behind Hartland Taxidermy.
I'm a former teacher turned passionate taxidermist, based in the East Valley of Phoenix, Arizona. My journey from the classroom to taxidermy has been driven by my love for wildlife and attention to detail. I take immense pride in every mount I create, applying my perfectionist mindset and strong work ethic to ensure each piece is a true reflection of nature.
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As a member of the Arizona Taxidermy Artists Association, I continuously hone my skills and stay connected with the latest techniques in the field. When I'm not in the studio, you'll find me out hunting with my family and our loyal dog, immersing myself in the experiences that inspire my work.
Contact
East Valley
Phoenix, AZ
602-680-0191
Call or Text
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How Can I Tell if a Bird is a Good Specimen?1. Maturity: A mature, fully-plumed bird with minimal physical damage will make the best mount. The coloration of a bird is a good indicator of maturity. Immature birds tend to have more muted, speckled plumage and may look duller compared to fully mature birds. In some species, immature males can resemble females (hens). If you’re uncertain about the bird’s maturity, feel free to send me a photo or bring it in for me to assess. 2. Plumage and Pinfeathers: Even a mature bird can have developing feathers, known as pinfeathers, which are not fully emerged. These can affect the final appearance of the mount. Pinfeathers can be problematic for two reasons: They often fall out during the mounting process when the bird is washed and dried, leaving gaps in the plumage. Even when partially grown, pinfeathers are shorter than the surrounding feathers, creating a bumpy or uneven texture on the finished mount. Pinfeathers can be visible from the outside, but they clearly noticeable from the inside of the bird. For the smoothest mount, it's best to choose a specimen with minimal pinfeathers. 3. Physical Damage: A bird with significant physical damage—such as broken bones, shot holes, or large areas of missing feathers—may not make the best specimen for mounting. Avoid birds that have been wrung by the neck, as this can cause irreversible damage. Small holes in the skin and some broken bones are often repairable, but missing primary feathers or large feather gaps can lead to an unsatisfactory result. If you're in doubt about the quality of the specimen, feel free to bring it in, and I’ll be happy to assess whether it's a good candidate for taxidermy.
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How Should I Handle a Bird I Want Mounted?1. Keep It Cool: As soon as you harvest the bird, it’s crucial to keep it cool. Don’t leave it out in the sun or allow it to warm up, as this accelerates decomposition. The best thing to do is to get the bird into the freezer as soon as possible. The bird does not need to be rinsed. 2. Preparation for Freezing: To prevent the bird from being damaged during freezing, tuck the head under the wing and fold the feet up, making the bird as compact as possible. Then place it in a Ziploc bag, ensuring all air is squeezed out. This minimizes freezer burn and preserves the specimen for mounting.
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Do You Require a Deposit?I do not take a deposit for taxidermy services, payment in full is due on pickup. The only thing I need when you drop off the bird is to see the license that shows it was a lawful harvest. Please provide the license from the state where the bird was harvested.
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What Is Your Turnaround Time?The turnaround time for bird taxidermy can vary depending on the species, size of the mount, and the complexity of the pose. Generally, you can expect a turnaround time of about one year.